The Calibre 1509 movement is actually made in almost all 18k rose gold (something which is really rare). You can see the very nicely decorated movement in the back of the watch and through the dial. Journe does a great job at the finishing, and always makes his movements deliciously impressive to behold. The dial of the watch has a sandwiched smoked sapphire crystal. He wanted to have the the ability to see the movement through the dial, but not to take emphasis away from the time readouts. So as you can see, the movement along with the discs for the numerals can be seen through the dial, but the time display information really has your paramount attention. Can you see what I mean when I say that this is a sophisticated timepiece, but at the same time F.P. Journe pulls it off so well he makes it look easy and simple?
The idea of taking a wrist watch and transforming it into a pocket is less common than the other way around. Having a piece that can go back and forth between wrist watch and pocket watch is much rarer still. Sure it is a novelty, but I think it is one that Chopard executes rather nicely in the case of their new L.U.C Louis Ulysse watch. L.U.C (I am just going to write LUC for brevity) labeled watches in the Chopard line as those that have their in-house made movements. At least this is my understanding. LUC might even stand for Louis Ulysse Chopard, not 100% clear on this. Well nevertheless, this piece is a direct tribute to the man.
Pretty much all the accessories are going to be specially made for the LeDIX phone. Lots of high grade metal, leather, and a feeling that you are better than others. Serious, in a world of such fast changing technology, why is more opulent and decadent that a several hundred thousand dollar mobile phone? And not a diamond to be found (though I am sure that is coming). The phone sits in an odd place in the ecosystem of mechanical devices. It isn't particularly high tech, nor does it have the most modern of styles. It is really a unique hybrid device that attempts to merge the worlds of luxury mechanical watches with mobile phones such a bit closer than they have ever been before.
My IWC Da Vinci Ceramic Chronograph Watch Article On AskMen.com
7 Commentsby Ariel Adams
My IWC Da Vinci Ceramic Chronograph Watch Article On AskMen.com
Previous watches in the collection were 44mm wide and this version is 42mm wide (and 14mm thick). In a time when such sport watches are still made with larger dimensions, I was very curious as to why Jaeger-LeCoultre shrunk the size a bit. The reason was simple. The Navy SEALs guys thought the previous versions were a bit big and asked for it to be smaller. Simple enough, but it was good to learn that fact. You can see the watch size on my wrist is prominent but not too big. It makes for a very capable daily wear, as well as a serious tool. The Navy SEALs were very interested in legibility. When it came down to it, this is their biggest request in a watch (aside from the fact that it should stand up to their abuse). Jaeger-LeCoultre designers spent a lot of time tweaking the dial to optimize how easy it is to read. I think that you will agree the high contrast dial looks highly legible and the hands stick out nicely. And especially on this watch, there are no subdials or other functions to take away from pure ease of use. Plus, special care was taken to make sure the lume was highly viewable in the dark and underwater. So in all, it succeeds in its intended purposes.
This is a more "simple" Jaquet Droz watch with an annual calendar and a quirky moon phase indicator. Called the "Eclipse," it comes in a 18k gold case and a nice black enamel dial. Nice? Sure. Super Jaquet Droz in character? Not really. Where is the "figure 8" dial we like so much? Once the brand gets new leadership, we will see where the core design sits after the dust settles. Priced at ,900.
There are four dial color options - each looks pretty viable in my opinion. Though I have to say that the red and black dial versions are my favorite. The dials seem to have carbon fiber weave like textures to them. Based on the CX Swiss Military AIRFORCE 1 watch, the Hurricane is a more enthusiast orient model with a refined design. I like that most limited edition watches from the brand are beefed up version of their standard collection. "You can get this standard collection version here, but if you really want something special, I can show you the limited edition version." The last CX Swiss Military Watch I covered and reviewed was their 20,000 Feet Diver, which I thought was a excellent timepiece (and it also has a Guinness World Record title).
Inside the watch is a Swiss Valjoux 7750 automatic with the dated moved to the lower center of the dial. The steel version has a silvered dial while the rose gold plated version has a "chocolate dial." Each is matched to a portholed leather strap and comes in a cool box with the 'stoptimer.' Not totally sure about price, but it will be in the ,000 - ,000 range. www.frederique-constant.com
These watches really help propel Seiko as a luxury brand with models that are a more natural step up for most Seiko watch owners. Unless you really understand the significant appeal of the Spring Drive movement, moving from the prices you are used to with Seiko watches to the Spring Drive Ananta pieces is hard to do. It is more natural to go from a few hundred dollars to a couple of thousand - rather than a few hundred dollars to several thousand. The value is still really impressive in both the Automatic and Spring Drive models. I visited the manufacture in Japan where the movements in the Automatic Ananta watches are produced. The facility is almost identical in poise and style to those of the high end makers in Europe. Movements in the Automatic collection are hand assembled and meticulously tested. Finding an European watch with this level of quality and features for the same price is not going to be possible. Oh, and I should note that the Seiko automatic movements are produced in a different manufacture than the Spring Dive movement. I found that to be interesting. Both are similar though in terms of the high quality facilities, but just located in different parts of Japan.
Dial is very impressive, and totally Cartier. The sapphire crystal, while curved a bit, is exceptionally clear. Lots of AR coating and a perfectly even crystal thickness ensures a totally glare and distortion free look in most viewing angles. Other watch makers need to look to Cartier to model their crystals and AR coatings. You'd barely known anything was over the dial at times. Using a slightly more simple version of the Roadster dial style, the Roman numerals and inner hour marker ring make the watch enjoyable to read. Overall the dial on the Roadster S is very similar to that on the Roadster. There is a new outline on the ring of where the bullet shaped magnifier lens used to be to retain that shape. I love that Cartier uses a black colored disc for the date with a silver colors font. Super classy. The watch hands are simple and legible, with applied SuperLumiNova.
The subsidiary seconds dial has a large arrow hand, but also three small cutaways in the dial. These have a disc underneath the colored red and white. As the seconds move these move from white to red and back again rather quickly. It looks awesome! The power reserve indicator is of the fanciest out there. Basically it is a series of disks. It goes from green to red at the power runs out. When you wind it, the power reserve indicator fill up with green again. The execution of this system is joyous to operate.
The watch case is 44mm wide in titanium, and has a nice level detailing all over it. It is also water resistant to 200 meters. Check out the interesting looking crown guard, engraved "H" logo in the crown, and detail work on the bezel as well as the sides of the case. The "Hermes Paris" branding on the side of the watch will constantly be a reminder that you need more ties and scarves from the French brand. The AR coated sapphire crystal is complimented with another on the back. The watch contains a Swiss Valjoux 7750 that has been decorated a bit and uses blued steel screws. I like the use of the H pattern on the automatic rotor, but I would have liked that part to actually be engraved in the metal as opposed to being on an attached plate. For this price we should get that. Snobs will take issue with the use of the 7750 movement on a watch that retails for close to ,000. There are far more expensive watches that use a 7750. Though it is true, that if you are looking for a watch to satisfy your horological snobbery, this isn't the right timepiece for the occasion. Personally, I understand the hardiness and durability of the movement enough to appreciate it, and know that when you wear an Hermes Clipper watch you are doing it for style and a feeling of luxury awareness (meaning that people who aren't in our hardcore watch lover club will be familiar with the brand).
At 43mm wide and not too thick at 13mm wide, the watch isn't small, but is certainly smaller than the biggy divers that we are all familiar with as of late. For me, the watch is a perfect mix of being large enough, but not being at all unwieldy. The steel case here is PVD black coated. You can tell that most of the case was brushed underneath the coating. There are more-or-less no sharp edges on the case at all. Running your finger over it is actually pleasing. Because the smooth texture of the coating combined with the many surfaces of the watch allow you to know exactly what you are touching without even looking. Which brings me to the rotating diver's bezel. At first I though it looked too rounded. Not sharp and precision cut like many of the much more expensive dive watches out there. The second you touch and use the bezel, you understand the concept. The bezel is not only easy to grip and read (even though it all black), but it does not cut into your fingers. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Dive watches for example have beautiful looking bezels, but some of them are so sharply milled that you could actually cut yourself on them if you were too aggressive or scratched up against them harshly. The C600 though has a very pleasing to touch and use rotating bezel. It might look a bit funny, but it works real well.
See JC de Castelbajac and Lego watches on eBay here.
Listen to HourTime Show watch podcast episode 34 here.
Gronefeld One Hertz 1912 Dead-Beat Seconds Watch
14 Commentsby Ariel Adams
Gronefeld One Hertz 1912 Dead-Beat Seconds Watch
The watch begins with a new manually wound pocket watch movement. The movement design is actually apparently further intended to be used by watch making students at the Geneva Watchmaking school. The idea is that for the student's final projects, they will make one of these movement. Nothing created by mere students has been fitted into any of the 150 pieces of the LUC Louis Ulysse Tribute watch. This of these as "master copies." While the movement is pretty simple in form and function, it is COSC Chronometer certified (meaning that it is accurate), and has the prestigious Seal of Geneva placed on it - indicating that it was made within the Caton of Geneva and with certain decor standards.You can see the movement at all times through the sapphire caseback window of the watch.