Listen to the HourTime Show Watch podcast episode 116 here.
Goes well with a grey shirt and jeans; about the only thing that'd look better is a wetsuit. This is a watch that cries out for adventure. The titanium on the case will quickly acquire scars, each a small reminder of that dive in the Augean. Or maybe of that steel door frame at work.
The case finishing and details are certainly upgraded from last year's prototype. You don't have to love the piece's design, but it is hard to argue that there aren't a lot of intricate details all over. I think that it is safe to suggest that the watch does fit within Romain Jerome's actual and perceived steampunk aesthetic. Technically being part of the Titanic DNA collection, the oxidized metal bezel does contain some trace metal from the titanic. On the rear of the watch it does state "Made with parts of the Titanic." On the rear of the watch you'll also see that rather cool octopus engraving - and that octopus does not look happy. Another neat detail is the design on the inner part of the rubber strap which is meant to look like tentacle suction cups. Far from wanting to look like a serious diver, this is a high-end themed novelty watch with a twist of character. It is not a good idea to ask too many "why" questions when trying to understand the watch. Just take it for what it is. Inside the watch is a Swiss automatic movement - just not sure which one. Likely sourced from Concepto as is commonly the case with RJ.
The dial is a rather fresh design that still feels very much like a Romain Jerome in concept. I wasn't sure what to make of the dial at first because frankly - I wanted more DeLorean in there. At the same time I realized that RJ wanted to suggest the theme of the DeLorean in the watch design, not make it look like a DeLorean per se. The dial is in mostly brushed steel with black painted sections to suggest the seams of the car's body panels. On the rear of the watch is a caseback plate that features an engraving of the DeLorean DMC-12 car with the gull wing doors open.
The i-Gucci Sport has a surprisingly rich feature set. What I can say overall is that the piece makes for an excellent traveler's watch. Let's go over its basic features. The default screen has two time zones and the date. You can swap out the date for a seconds display. You also have the reference city of your current time and a local time below. If you really want, you can also opt for a "digital analog" display that has two digital hands for the hours and minutes. There will always be two time zones on the dial when looking at the default screen - so get used to it.
OK come on, this watch is cool. I am not even a basketball or Miami Heat fan, but this watch is really cool. It doesn't take a lot of thought to understand why Hublot is doing well with the aspirational youth audience or wealthy individuals who wouldn't take a Patek out for a night on the town in fear that they might fall asleep at 9:30pm from a lack of visual excitement. This watch is really what Hublot is doing best. The designs we see might sometimes be redundant or predictable, but they are still cool.
Much of the straps you see are custom made or designed for Maurice de Mauriac. These are just a small selection of the many straps he is constantly offering. Lately, Daniel has been keenly interested in straps made from fine leather (such as Hermes), as well as woven leather style straps.
OK, so getting back to that problem I was referring to. Breguet releases information on the prototype Type XXII and then shows it to the press. We merrily discuss the new watch over the next few months and then think little of it unless the brands spray us with PR messages asking us to pay attention to the piece again. Some time later, Breguet releases the final version of the Type XXII to shops and it isn't the same watch us members of the watch media wrote about. Worse yet, they don't update the watch media that the final retail version is a little bit different than the prototype. This causes at least two problems - consumers are potentially misled about what to expect in the store and also, consumers aren't ever made aware through watch media when the products they are interested in are finally commercially available. It can be months to years before watches us writers get to check out are finally available for purchase. That time to market figure changes all the time, and rarely are watches available for purchase when we write about them. What brands need to do is an additional PR (public relations) push when a product people are waiting for is finally being shipped to retailers, and of course include information on how and if those watches may have changed (because it is usually for the better). More so, I will claim that watch brands need to do a better job of helping the watch media tell consumers where to actually buy or get simple information about where to buy watches. They know watch buyers read watch media, so then why doesn't it make sense for watch brands to use the watch media to tell people the products they are waiting for are ready for purchase?
All versions of the Jules Verne Instrument III watch will be limited editions of 365 pieces. The case is 45.5mm wide and 16.5mm tall with wide 24mm spaced lugs. The case will come in steel, titanium, or a version with titanium and 18k rose gold. The bezel is cool and the watch looks nice on the wrist, but I would have liked for it to be a bit more complicated in construction more akin to the brand's other pieces. Though I do like the complicated look of the crown and monopusher for the chronograph.
WHAT: The 2nd annual Madison Avenue Watch Week will celebrate haute horology for timepiece collectors and connoisseurs in 17 of the world's premier watch retailers located on Madison Avenue between 57th and 86th Streets. Madison Avenue Watch Week is free and open to the public, and will feature new watch previews and launches; discussions with watchmakers; presentations regarding trends in design, manufacturing and mechanism technology; an exhibition of antique and historic timepieces; and private in-store receptions and VIP sales appointments.
While we know that all Ermenegildo Zegna High Performance watches will have Swiss ETA movements, it isn’t clear which one is in the Sea Diver. I suspect a 2892 automatic. An interesting note about the watch is the case back which is secured with a series of hex screws versus having a screw-down caseback. That is uncommon in a diver. Attached to the watch is a black rubber strap.
Let's step back a bit and revisit the overall concept of the watch and the brand thus far. Martin Braun is a movement designer and exists among a select group of elite thinkers who are really doing cool things mechanically but in a way that has the movements actually working. The Antoine Martin brand could have easily been classical in theme but eschewed that in favor of a more masculine concept. With nicely made movements and a bold concept that doesn't come across as trendy or temporary, I think the look and feel of the brand certainly has a place in the high-end world.
It also helps defeat the concept that "if we don't sell online, why should be advertise online." Many luxury and watch brands do not sell over the internet at this time for a variety of reasons. They use this fact as a reason when citing why they don't participate in internet advertising campaigns. Though this has always been a perplexing rationale because you can't buy a watch in a magazine or newspaper either - which represent most of the print publications that many watch brands are used to advertising in.
Name: Oktopus II — Double Date
Models: Oktopus II — Double Date in titanium and ceramic with blue accents in the dial — 88 pieces
Oktopus II — Double Date in titanium, titanium DLC and ceramic with yellow accents in the dial — 88 pieces
Oktopus II — Double Date rose gold and titanium with rose gold accents in the dial — 88 pieces
Case: 5 part case-construction / 2.5 mm sapphire crystal antireflective on one side / Screw in back case with engraved octopus drawing / Screw in crown with engraved octopus symbol
Dimensions: 44mm (w) by 46mm (l) by 15,25mm (h)
Dial: 2 layer dial / upper layer laser-cut in stencil technique / lower dial circular Côtes de Genève / date dial at 12 o’clock / date wheel laser-cut layer / hands in stainless steel with satin finish / LW cool grey 1U bespoke superluminova
Movement: Linde Werdelin modified Dubois Depraz caliber 14580 / automatic / double date at 12 o’clock / 40 to 44 hour power reserve / 26 jewels / 28,800 bph (4 Hz)
Water Water Resistance: 300m
Strap: Bespoke high-end rubber strap, interchangeable within Linde Werdelin’s proprietary strap system
Also announced was a duo of bright blue Monacos meant to invoke the memory of Steve McQueen, who wore a Monaco in the 1971 film Le Mans, and has been a considerable factor in the continued popularity of the Monaco line. First, the Monaco Heuer Steve McQueen Calibre 11, a traditional looking blue and white edition of the Monaco that is actually a slightly revised version of a boutique-only model that Tag Heuer announced last year. This is basically a vintage inspired Monaco with bright white racing stripes on the dial and its crown on the left side of the case. Note the use of "Heuer" and not "Tag Heuer" on the dial and the matching blue leather strap. It is fitting that this vintage inspired chronograph wears the Heuer name on its dial as the original Monaco design launched in 1969, some sixteen years before Heuer became Tag Heuer.