As part of Zenith's focus on their Pilot watch collection for 2013, one of the new models is this Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 GMT watch. Also new for 2013 is the Zenith Pilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar. Both the Annual Calendar and the GMT use existing Zenith movements. In fact, we see very little new movements these days from the major brands. Movement development is extremely expensive and time consuming. It is often best to extend the life of successful movements by dressing them up in different ways, in different watches. Zenith of course is among the true in-house movement makers.
Marc Newson offers a rare interview discussing his career designing watches with Dezeen. In the video Newson offers some interesting details that many people might not be aware of. Newson started to design watches and clocks back in the 1980s. In the 1990s he started the watch brand Ikepod - which arguably helped set a lot of trends in both watch design and production. Newson does sort of credit himself as having started the "big watch" trend. True or not, it is charming to see him boast about it.
Like most two button chronographs, the TAG Heuer Grand Carrera Caliber 36 can be started with a push on the top button. The start button has a solid click feel to it.
Then we have the LSI calculation power increasing significantly to reduce altitude measurement time from five seconds to one second, and also with an improved accuracy from five-meter to one-meter increments. This is a welcome enhancement even though it really only makes sense when measuring in a moving vehicle as opposed to being on foot. Still, a one meter increment is way better than the five I have been used to. With a map and properly calibrated to altitude, this offers a better precision that I will take any day.
But what maybe is the most important aspect of this Navitimer and also explains the nice, short, 01 moniker is the movement. It's the first Breitling manufacture movement, the B01. This is the same movement used in the Chronomat B01 and other newer Breitling models. That same movement is also the basis for the Breitling B02 and B03 in-house variations. It is a classic column-wheel chronograph design which is typically agreed by most to be a better design for a chronograph than alternatives like lever or cam actuated movements. While being a common design and not revolutionary, creating a new completely in-house column wheel chronograph is no small feat and pushing the guarantee to five years shows the brand's confidence on the reliability of that new movement.
MB&F, in a sense, has become like Disney for me. Less about animation and songs and more about something to look forward to. Having said that, I should modify my statement to say "the Disney of 20 years ago and older." Disney today just ain't what it used to be! Anyhow, I thoroughly enjoy how MB&F is able to surprise and tantalize me. I am waiting for an HM or LM watch that I actually really don't like just to say that I am not a mere MB&F fanboy. But so far, Mr. Busser (and his friends) are able to retain my attention rather well. When "On The Road Again" was first shown to people, it was (as can be excepted) met with mixed reviews. MB&F was slightly discouraged buy this until they recalled that "oh yea, we are the brand about polarizing crazy watches for the few and not the many." Polarizing design is good, if not absolutely great when it comes to the success of many niche timepieces.
A new round of rumors have popped up seeming to indicate that 2013 may very well be the year Apple finally releases a dedicated watch product. Primary to these rumors is that Apple will be working with Intel to produce a processor for a small, power efficient device. It is true that historically Intel has not been in the business of building efficient processors for small devices. Their forte has always been to produce increasingly powerful processors for computers. Having said that, a large report from Wired Magazine recently detailed Intel's major efforts to compete or displace companies like ARM that lead the market in processors for mobile devices. A powerful processor that also sips power could produce an iWatch device with huge potential.
Recently Breitling unveiled the modern Transocean collection with a three-hand and chronograph model which I reviewed hands-on here. The Transocean is a slick, retro-looking boardroom watch in a contemporary size, fitting for today's "Breitling guy." That means the three-hand automatic isn't dainty being 43mm wide. This new Transocean Unitime however is larger at 46mm wide. That certainly isn't too large for a Breitling, but is probably close to the size ceiling for what people want in a classic looking timepiece.
Omega is very proud of its co-axial escapement and even goes as far as to dub it “The Perfect Mechanical Movement”. Simply put, the co-axial escapement, invented by Englishman George Daniels, is a modification of the traditional escapement by using three instead of two pallets. Such a design significantly reduces friction and, in theory, makes lubrication unnecessary. Practically speaking however, what the co-axial escapement really means for watch buyers are longer warranties (Omega offers four years) and longer service intervals. In any case, this rather nicely executed commercial by Omega celebrates its co-axial movement and is well worth watching especially if you are a fan of the brand.
While a watch itself probably isn't going to keep you safe from the walking dead, it is a valuable tool that will help keep you alive. The best watches to have after the apocalypse are those that will survive themselves. Quartz movement (as opposed to mechanical) based watches are durable, accurate, and easy to replace. They are, however, battery-powered, which means that they can die on you at the wrong time. A good solution are self-charging quartz watches such as those which rely on light to power a battery. These can last thirty years or more given the durability of the system. Having said that, watch batteries are plentiful and long-lasting. They are also among the last batteries people are going to be looking for when trying to power their stuff. That means having to replace a battery in a quartz watch isn't at all impossible.
I think the SBDC007 is a real sleeper and offers a considerable list of features for those interested in a Seiko that is more interesting or fully-featured than an SKX or a base SBDC "Sumo" variant. While we may all secretly want a Spring Drive to call our own, I think there is a great market for divers that fall between the entry level Seiko 5 models and the top tier GS offerings. The SDBC007 is yet another model that highlights the strength of Seiko's model range and the disappointment that they won't simply bring them to Europe and North America making both sales and service much easier for the Seiko fan in all of us.
In 2008 we started delivering HM2 and HM1 at full margin and we could start to breathe again after two and a half years working like crazy, not knowing how the hell we were going to get out of it. Then, just when the light starts shining for the first time, in September 2008 Lehman Brothers went down –the beginning of a massive crisis – and suddenly all the retailers at the end of the year went ‘Well Max, we don’t want anything anymore’. Of course in our life-cycle of products it takes 2-3 years to create a product so I had to finance everything at least one to two years in advance – the cases, the movements, the dials, everything was coming out! That year I traveled 240 days. I was helping my retail partners to explain our story and the product – so that they could sell the pieces – and try and make a bit of a business! Finally, we made it through 2009. The stories are multiple, the point is: if I had done this for money, I would have already burnt out. But because it’s your life’s calling, you can bear with all of it.
Omega announced recently that they have designed an anti-magnetic watch movement based on their in-house co-axial 8500 series. The calibre 8508 uses specialized non-ferrous materials in its construction which allows it to be unaffected by magnetic energy up to 1.5 Tesla (15,000 gauss). Omega employed the Aqua Terra platform to display the movement as the 8508 does not rely on a conventional iron case layer for magnetic protection. This non-ferrous construction allows the movement to be protected from considerable magnetic interference while still being viewable via a display case back.
This new model in question is the Timemaster Chrono GMT S-Ray 007 (product page), created especially for Iren Dornier, a pilot and adventurer who's embarking on an around-the-world trip in an amphibious plane to raise awareness (and funds) for a charitable project. While much of the Timemaster line already hews closely to a vintage aviation aesthetic, the input of Dornier has created a model that looks to draw even more inspiration from aviation.
So I think it is pretty cool that they managed to incorporate a central chronograph to the Turbine. The issue of course is that on a watch like this you can't have subdials (as they would look silly being blocked by the turbine), so Perrelet developed a special central chronograph that measures 60 minutes. The dial's central seconds hand is for the chronograph, and there is no dedicated seconds hand for the time. Minutes are counted on a moving sapphire crystal disc. Minutes are measured by looking at the red "MIN" arrow on the left of the dial. Not that the watch needed it, but there is also a tachymeter scale on the bezel. I also like that there is a date indicator window peeking through the blades at 6 o'clock.
According to Molnar Fabry, the brand's watches are produced by a duo of guys who are former goldsmiths. That means they took a jewelry background and applied it not to strict watch making per se, but rather the embellishing and decoration of existing watch movements. In some way, what Molnar Fabry does is very similar to what German Benzinger does - merely with a slightly different outcome.
As seen in the video above, Mr. Coppoletta dreamed up a very dynamic and truly dramatic scene for the dial, one that tells us the story of a sinking ship and hence: "the sailor's grave." To bring some positivity into the picture, the anchor - a symbol of strength and hope, and the link to Mother Earth - plays a prominent role in the design. Speaking of the dial: at first glance the two lightning bolts and the big anchor clearly dominate the design and make any other detail rather difficult to see. However, after some further inspection, the stamped, engraved and decorated silver elements finally become visible and make up the clouds, the sinking ship and the sea. This is when the dial finally starts to form a complete picture and, for some, to trigger emotions!
For years now, Omega has wanted to be eye-to-eye with Rolex. Unfortunately, with the amount of new pieces Omega releases they will never be able to maintain the same level of staunch conservatism as their rival who tends to release experiments such as this maybe a handful of times each decade (if that). You have got to give Omega kudos for supplementing its major product pillars with pieces like this. Omega knows how to equally cater to novice watch lovers as well as enthusiasts who can get behind the concept of a watch like this with haste.
Piaget has already made the world's thinnest mechanical movement, automatic movement, and a range of others like the world's thinnest tourbillon and automatic tourbillon. Now that they have the most basic and most complicated movements down they have a chance to fill in the middle. Perhaps a really thin chronograph is due next? I bet that would be lovely. The 2013 Piaget Emperador Coussin XL Ultra Thin Minute Repeater will debut next month and will be priced at over 0,000 when it is eventually commercially released.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Blue Dial Watch Hands-On
2 Commentsby Ariel Adams
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Blue Dial Watch Hands-On
Between the all-dial style and high-polish steel case, this Bell & Ross is an attention-getting watch. In direct sunlight you can better see the curved surface of the outer dial as well as the galvanic finish. The dial design interests me: no minute markers, but big 9 and 12 numerals and a small logo. An interesting mix of empty space and purpose.
In today's world of horology, when there are simultaneous races being fought for the fastest, the largest, the most complicated of watches it can truly be a good idea for a manufacture to relax and quietly create something ultra-fine, ultra-hard to beat: something ultra-thin. Less is often more, and this paradox could very well be that extra bit of help putting Arnold & Son on the wish-list of more collectors and watch lovers alike. arnoldandson.com